Install Mirolin Showers Installation
Hi all,I am in the process of installing a shower base and require some direction. The bathroom is in my basement and measures 5'x8'. All the plumbing is installed and just yesterday (April 6) we poured self levelling compound over our concrete.all looks good so far. I have attached a picture of the underside of the base as it is different than most I seen.
My question is, what is the best way to attach this to the concrete floor?Second question.the top side of the base is flat, it do not have the typical 1' -1.5' ledge on the 3 sides. Some instructions show the ledge used for mounting the base to the wall plus they prevent water from leaking over the sides. The shower base did come with 3 strips (albeit flimsy) that are to be attached to the base using screws, once I drill small holes into the base that is. The instructions suggest applying silicone where the strips meet the base.
One company I spoke to suggested not to use the strips, but to apply a bead of silicone near the outside edge (nearer to the studs) and a second bead will be run along the base of the wall tiles. This should take care of possible leaks, but what amount preventing the base from moving? Any thoughts?I just included a picture of the top of the shower base with one of the strips laying on the right side of the base. Obviously, this strip will be rotated 90 degrees for installation.I appreciate any input, Thanks!Harold. You could lay it in a bed of thinset.It's not a base I would use without the flange on 3 sides.
Install Mirolin Shower Installation
Any movement at all and you will get a leak. Silicone will not last forever.
Your choice.Hi Rusty,Thanks for weighing in! If I go that route, how thick should I pour the thinset?The absent flanges is the only downside to this shower. When I started looking around at the big box stores I did not like the quality, i.e. The plastic material in the floor was about 1/16' and the base was supported with foam, making it very light. I think the foam will eventually wear/deform after constant use.probably I am wrong. This base is really sturdy and weighs about 5 times heavier than other bases I looked at.
That's what sold me on this unit. I hope there is a way of making this leak proof!!Harold. Didn't the base come with a set of installation instructions from the manufacturer?
If you deviate from their recommendations won't you invalidate the warranty?Yes, it came with instructions and it calls for a mortar bed and that's it.So my concerns are will this method keep the shower base from moving seeing there is no mention of attaching it to the bare studs. In a previous post Rusty recommends setting the bed to be the thickness of what one would use in laying a tile (3/8' I assume).
That is useful information to me (instructions lack this info). On the same topic, I was thinking of just putting a band of mortar in line with the 4' dia. Pipe instead of laying a bed of mortar the full length of the base. This band would be a little wider than the 4' pipe. Would this suffice for installation and would it be enough to keep the base from moving? Opinions appreciated.I do not plan on deviating from the instructions as I will use mortar, but the instructions are so poor.
This is why I am looking for input on this forum for assistance/guidance.Thanks for your time Doug.Harold. Re: How to Install acrylic showerbaseHarold I do agree with Mo about returning the base for the correct one but if that's not feasible I would fasten the strips to the base and then screw it to the wall after positioning it in place in the mortar/thinset base. I would put enough of a base to ensure every one of the round 'feet' is settled into the mortar. A strip will not save you much and the base may not settle in properly, such that the base may bend when you stand on it if there is a void under the base. Re: How to Install acrylic showerbaseI agree with Rusty about making sure the full bottom is supported by the mortar/thinset especially the area around the drain hole.
If it flexes there it can crack and leak. I replaced one a few years ago that cracked at the drain hole location and leaked. It was a neo shape with a centre drain so it was probably more susceptible to cracking than yours with the drain at one end where your less likely to stand on the drain area.It's unfortunate that some manufacturers don't do a better job of supplying full installation instructions, I guess they assume all their products will be installed by experienced installers not DIY'ers. I agree with Rusty about making sure the full bottom is supported by the mortar/thinset especially the area around the drain hole. If it flexes there it can crack and leak.
I replaced one a few years ago that cracked at the drain hole location and leaked. It was a neo shape with a centre drain so it was probably more susceptible to cracking than yours with the drain at one end where your less likely to stand on the drain area.It's unfortunate that some manufacturers don't do a better job of supplying full installation instructions, I guess they assume all their products will be installed by experienced installers not DIY'ers.If one has to replace a shower base how difficult is it to remove and how do you deal with the bed of mortar? I will be installing the base by this week-end.Harold. Harold I do agree with Mo about returning the base for the correct one but if that's not feasible I would fasten the strips to the base and then screw it to the wall after positioning it in place in the mortar/thinset base. I would put enough of a base to ensure every one of the round 'feet' is settled into the mortar.
A strip will not save you much and the base may not settle in properly, such that the base may bend when you stand on it if there is a void under the base.I mentioned returning the base to my wife, she was not happy. She really likes the sliding doors and overall design. I did return it to Costco once already as I discovered the flanges were not built in and I was concerned about this. But could not find any other that we liked, so I had to go back to Costco and by it again.LOL.
Mirolin Bathtubs
Will have to conquer the flange issue.Harold. Re: How to Install acrylic showerbaseHarold, If you have to replace the base it will be a tough job. Basically you will be tearing your shower apart totally. It will affect your tiled walls too and thinset will not come up easily. My guess would be that you will take the base out in pieces and I know for sure a power chisel will be needed to get the thin set off the concrete floor so you better love that base.
Most likely if you have trouble it will be because the base is weak and cracks or more likely it leaks at the edge because it doesn't have a flange on the 3 sides against the walls.When and if you decide to look for a different base don't go to Costco or Home Depot. Go to a real plumbing supplier. What you have is a standard size and should not be hard to find.
You also have the option of building a base. Kerdi comes to mind.
Harold, If you have to replace the base it will be a tough job. Basically you will be tearing your shower apart totally. It will affect your tiled walls too and thinset will not come up easily. My guess would be that you will take the base out in pieces and I know for sure a power chisel will be needed to get the thin set off the concrete floor so you better love that base. Most likely if you have trouble it will be because the base is weak and cracks or more likely it leaks at the edge because it doesn't have a flange on the 3 sides against the walls.When and if you decide to look for a different base don't go to Costco or Home Depot. Go to a real plumbing supplier.
What you have is a standard size and should not be hard to find. You also have the option of building a base. Kerdi comes to mind.Thanks again for your input Rusty, you have given me a lot to think about. Will let you know what I do.Harold. Re: How to Install acrylic showerbaseI agree with Rusty and the other guys, no way I'd install that base in an Alcove type install with no built in wall flanges.Drains vary in distance off the wall at the end 6-8 inches usually, there are lots of different manufacturers.Acritec, Venco, Mirolin, Kohler, Hytec, Amer. Standard, etc.all make them in centre, RH or LH drain optionsmost you can order matching doors etc for toocan you post a link to the Manufacturer of yours?